Note: Travel Diary has been updated! Pictures to be added
I’m having the time of my life on this awesome 3-week European journey, and I’ve tried to put in the effort to write as much as possible during this time, even if it’s just to keep the creative juices flowing and so I don’t ever forget this amazing adventure.
However, I’m falling a little behind with my Travel Diary entries. I just completed my lengthy entry on Rome (still no pictures, unfortunately, but I’ll try and add some soon), though I have been in Switzerland the last couple of days and from tomorrow will be in Germany! I’ve finished listening to Stephen King’s brilliant On Writing but I’m still yet to write a review (but more importantly, jot down some helpful tips from King that I’ll want to employ in my own writing from this point forward).
In my last post I wrote about this wonderful little cake store near the Colosseum called Cristalli Di Zucchero. Anyway, I thought I’d add a few more thoughts about Italy and Vatican City before I forget it all!
Must-see attractions
I visited 4 cities in Italy: Pisa, Florence, Venice and Rome. I’d say Venice is the prettiest, with its beautiful turqoise canals, clean, narrow streets and lack of modern architecture. Rome, of course, is a must visit because of its history, the abundance of attractions, and Vatican City. Florence is very nice, kind of charming and relaxed in its own way, and Pisa is just good for the Leaning Tower.
Of all the places I visited in Italy, my top 5 attractions (in descending order) are:
5. San Marco (St Mark’s Square) – a massive square and a world heritage site in Venice and home to Basilica Di San Marco. Moreover, the journey through the canals to get there may be as amazing as the place itself.
4. Galleria dell’Accademia – in Florence, home of Michelangelo’s David, a truly magnificent masterpiece. See it if you plan on seeing just one sculpture.
3. National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II (or Altare della Patria or Il Vittoriano for short) – in Rome, very close to the Coloseum. Big, white and not ancient, but amazing to look at nonetheless. Plus you can walk up all those stairs to the top where you can enjoy the best views of Rome!
2. Vatican City – corridor after corridor of art in the Vatican Museum (and the most famous ones in the Sistine Chapel) and St Peter’s Basilica are unforgettable regardless of your religion. Just make sure you buy tickets in advance for the Museum if you want to avoid the long queues.
1. Palantine Hill – the archaeological site next to the Colosseum in Rome. Head around the walls to the North-Western side and look down from above.
Pizza
Pizza is everywhere and we had it at least once a day (fat city). It’s difficult to find BAD pizza in Italy, but some are clearly better than others. Prices can also vary significantly, from a couple of Euros a slice in corner stores to twenty-plus in posh restaurants. Chances are they won’t taste all that different. The best ones we had were actually from the small shops where you buy a slice and eat it standing on the side. The worst would be from chain store restaurants that look too neat and touristy. However, the most amazing tasting ones we had were actually from a takeout joint called Spizzico, at Roma Termini station.
Most pizzas we came across were pretty authentic – meaning tomato base, cheese, and one or two simple toppings such as mushroom, prosciutto or sausage. None of the crazy toppings you’d find at Pizza Hut or Dominos. However, a common problem (for me at least) was that they were too salty, especially the tomato base. It seems they are a bit inconsistent in this regard. You can get two pizzas from the same place and one could be just right and the other too salty.
Gelato
We (well, my wife) are big gelato fans. There are plenty in Italy, just about on every touristy street. The majority taste pretty similar, to be honest, but prices vary. €2 for a small cone would be a decent price, but some can charge as much as €3.50 for a single scoop.
The best and cheapest we had was at Old Bridge Gelato (address: Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 5) just around the corner from the Vatican Museum. The smallest cone is just €1.30 (and the next up is €1.50). The gelato is top notch and you can get up to 3 flavours regardless of size of cone – plus you can get free cream on top! Here is a review of the place.
The crepe place next door is very good too.
Coffee
I’m not the biggest coffee fan but my wife likes to look for good coffee places. There are quite a few in Italy, but some can be quite expensive. The best one we went to came highly recommended, and it’s very close to the Pantheon. It’s called Caffé San’ Eustachio and it is quite small and seemingly always crowded. You order at the counter then give your receipt to the coffee makers. Most people stand and finish their cup, though a few take them to the limited seats outside. I found this blog post about the place.
Safety
Before I came to Italy I was warned by family members that it was a dangerous place. People get mugged all the time. If you don’t keep an eye on your bags they could disappear any second. Hoards of kids crowd you in and pick your pockets. Stuff like that.
Fortunately, I experienced none of the above. Not even close. For the most part, I found Italy to be seemingly quite safe. Of course, I took the necessary precautions, such as not going out too late, keeping my belongings zipped up when I go out, and keep to the main streets. The street vendors were actually quite nice and polite, totally unlike the thugs we encountered in Paris that try to force you to buy their crap.
Vatican City
Visiting Vatican City was a dream come true. I’m not a Catholic, but I had always been fascinated by its history, and more importantly, the amazing architecture and priceless art works. In that regard, the visit was everything I had expected.
What I didn’t expect were the long lines (silly me) and the number of people who tried to push in and sneak to the front. When everyone’s waiting patiently, seeing people who blatantly break the rules can be frustrating. So be smart and purchase tickets in advance to avoid the hassle.
Another thing I found disappointing was the over-commercialization of the place. Sure enough, the tickets were expensive, but I didn’t expect there to be so much merchandise everywhere I went! And people (I assume mostly the religious ones) were lapping up the over-priced products like Pope pens and pendants like crazy! Don’t they make enough money from the entry tickets already? It almost felt like they were exploiting people’s faiths.
Most troubling were the school groups, where the guides would point to various paintings like The Last Judgment and try to scare kids into Catholicism by telling them they’ll go to hell if they don’t do this and that. Surely there has to be a better way to teach religion to children?
Vatican Preacher: Accusing Church of Abuse Akin to Anti-Semitism
April 4, 2010 in Religion, Social/Political Commentary
Rev Raniero Cantalamessa, who made the comments on Good Friday
I don’t usually like to comment on religious or political things, but this latest Vatican furore has gotten me worked up — and after all, it’s Easter.
At the Good Friday service delivered by Pope Benedict XVI’s personal preacher, Rev Raniero Cantalamessa, read out a letter from a friend which likened the recent persecution of the Catholic Church over clerical sex abuse cover ups to the “more shameful aspects of anti-Semitism.”
What could have possibly possessed Cantalamessa to compare the allegations of feigned ignorance or blatant cover up over child sex abuse by the Catholic Church to the unspeakable horrors stemming from anti-Semitism? Rather than whine about and give lame excuses over the flack the Church has copped (and justifiably so) over the child abuse and cover up claims, why not actually do something about it? Or at least make it look like they’re doing something about it? By all means, make the point that the Church as a whole is being unfairly blamed, and that not all priests are pedophiles. But do it in an intelligent way that does not unnecessaily stir up the already sensitive public.
And of course, the expected public backlash/overreaction is equally frustrating. It’s typical of the media to pick one little bit of a sermon by one person of the Church and blow it out of proportion by saying it’s an insult to all the Jews that perished in the Holocaust. No wonder the Pope (and the Vatican) is trying to distance himself from the comments.
However, at the end of the day, it’s really just another example of the arrogance and naivete of certain members of the Catholic Church in thinking that they can play the “victim” card in the child abuse saga and expect to get away it. And to use anti-Semitism to draw parallels is just plain stupid.
In particular, I found the comparison interesting given that the Catholic Church has played a prominent role in both the child abuse cover-up scandals and in perpetuating theological anti-Semitism throughout history.
Tags: anti-semitism, Cantalamessa, Catholic Church, child abuse, Christianity, Church, cover up, Easter, Good Friday, Pope Benedict, scandal, Vatican
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