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A Few Quick Thoughts on Italy and Vatican City

March 24, 2009 in Food, Religion, Travel

Note: Travel Diary has been updated!  Pictures to be added

I’m having the time of my life on this awesome 3-week European journey, and I’ve tried to put in the effort to write as much as possible during this time, even if it’s just to keep the creative juices flowing and so I don’t ever forget this amazing adventure.

However, I’m falling a little behind with my Travel Diary entries.  I just completed my lengthy entry on Rome (still no pictures, unfortunately, but I’ll try and add some soon), though I have been in Switzerland the last couple of days and from tomorrow will be in Germany!  I’ve finished listening to Stephen King’s brilliant On Writing but I’m still yet to write a review (but more importantly,  jot down some helpful tips from King that I’ll want to employ in my own writing from this point forward).

In my last post I wrote about this wonderful little cake store near the Colosseum called Cristalli Di Zucchero.  Anyway, I thought I’d add a few more thoughts about Italy and Vatican City before I forget it all!

Must-see attractions

I visited 4 cities in Italy: Pisa, Florence, Venice and Rome.  I’d say Venice is the prettiest, with its beautiful turqoise canals, clean, narrow streets and lack of modern architecture.  Rome, of course, is a must visit because of its history, the abundance of attractions, and Vatican City.  Florence is very nice, kind of charming and relaxed in its own way, and Pisa is just good for the Leaning Tower.

Of all the places I visited in Italy, my top 5 attractions (in descending order) are:

5. San Marco (St Mark’s Square) – a massive square and a world heritage site in Venice and home to Basilica Di San Marco.  Moreover, the journey through the canals to get there may be as amazing as the place itself.

4. Galleria dell’Accademia – in Florence, home of Michelangelo’s David, a truly magnificent masterpiece.  See it if you plan on seeing just one sculpture.

3. National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II (or Altare della Patria  or Il Vittoriano for short) – in Rome, very close to the Coloseum.  Big, white and not ancient, but amazing to look at nonetheless.  Plus you can walk up all those stairs to the top where you can enjoy the best views of Rome!

2. Vatican City – corridor after corridor of art in the Vatican Museum (and the most famous ones in the Sistine Chapel) and St Peter’s Basilica are unforgettable regardless of your religion.  Just make sure you buy tickets in advance for the Museum if you want to avoid the long queues.

1. Palantine Hill – the archaeological site next to the Colosseum in Rome.  Head around the walls to the North-Western side and look down from above.

Pizza

Pizza is everywhere and we had it at least once a day (fat city).  It’s difficult to find BAD pizza in Italy, but some are clearly better than others.  Prices can also vary significantly, from a couple of Euros a slice in corner stores to twenty-plus in posh restaurants.  Chances are they won’t taste all that different.  The best ones we had were actually from the small shops where you buy a slice and eat it standing on the side.  The worst would be from chain store restaurants that look too neat and touristy.  However, the most amazing tasting ones we had were actually from a takeout joint called Spizzico, at Roma Termini station.

Most pizzas we came across were pretty authentic – meaning tomato base, cheese, and one or two simple toppings such as mushroom, prosciutto or sausage.  None of the crazy toppings you’d find at Pizza Hut or Dominos.  However, a common problem (for me at least) was that they were too salty, especially the tomato base.  It seems they are a bit inconsistent in this regard.  You can get two pizzas from the same place and one could be just right and the other too salty.

Gelato

We (well, my wife) are big gelato fans.  There are plenty in Italy, just about on every touristy street.  The majority taste pretty similar, to be honest, but prices vary.  €2 for a small cone would be a decent price, but some can charge as much as €3.50 for a single scoop.

The best and cheapest we had was at Old Bridge Gelato (address: Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 5) just around the corner from the Vatican Museum.  The smallest cone is just €1.30 (and the next up is €1.50).  The gelato is top notch and you can get up to 3 flavours regardless of size of cone – plus you can get free cream on top!  Here is a review of the place.

The crepe place next door is very good too.

Coffee

I’m not the biggest coffee fan but my wife likes to look for good coffee places.  There are quite a few in Italy, but some can be quite expensive.  The best one we went to came highly recommended, and it’s very close to the Pantheon.  It’s called Caffé San’ Eustachio and it is quite small and seemingly always crowded.  You order at the counter then give your receipt to the coffee makers.  Most people stand and finish their cup, though a few take them to the limited seats outside.  I found this blog post about the place.

Safety

Before I came to Italy I was warned by family members that it was a dangerous place.  People get mugged all the time.  If you don’t keep an eye on your bags they could disappear any second.  Hoards of kids crowd you in and pick your pockets.  Stuff like that.

Fortunately, I experienced none of the above.  Not even close.  For the most part, I found Italy to be seemingly quite safe.  Of course, I took the necessary precautions, such as not going out too late, keeping my belongings zipped up when I go out, and keep to the main streets.  The street vendors were actually quite nice and polite, totally unlike the thugs we encountered in Paris that try to force you to buy their crap.

Vatican City

Visiting Vatican City was a dream come true.  I’m not a Catholic, but I had always been fascinated by its history, and more importantly, the amazing architecture and priceless art works.  In that regard, the visit was everything I had expected.

What I didn’t expect were the long lines (silly me) and the number of people who tried to push in and sneak to the front.  When everyone’s waiting patiently, seeing people who blatantly break the rules can be frustrating.  So be smart and purchase tickets in advance to avoid the hassle.

Another thing I found disappointing was the over-commercialization of the place.  Sure enough, the tickets were expensive, but I didn’t expect there to be so much merchandise everywhere I went!  And people (I assume mostly the religious ones) were lapping up the over-priced products like Pope pens and pendants like crazy!  Don’t they make enough money from the entry tickets already?  It almost felt like they were exploiting people’s faiths.

Most troubling were the school groups, where the guides would point to various paintings like The Last Judgment and try to scare kids into Catholicism by telling them they’ll go to hell if they don’t do this and that.  Surely there has to be a better way to teach religion to children?

All Roads Should Lead to this Cake Store in Rome

March 22, 2009 in Food, Travel

Update: pictures added!

Today marked the end of the Italian leg of our 1st anniversary vacation (actually, today is our anniversary!) – and we are now in Switzerland, at the home town of Roger Federer, Basel.  It just happened to be the last night of some crazy festival and so when we wandered out into the city streets we were deafened by the sound of thumping drums and ear-piercing trumpets and flutes and a whole bunch of instruments I couldn’t name.  People were just about everywhere and in every street, pacing up and down in small groups to parade-like masses.  It was fun, eye-opening and kinda scary all at the same time.

Anyway, since my last post, we had completed our adventures in Italy.  Rome and Vatican City had been at the top of my travel destinations list forever, and I can finally cross them off after being wowed by just about everything I had seen over the last 3 days or so.  For those interested in exactly what I got up to, please wait until I’ve had the time to update the Travel Diary section.  I would also really like to post some pictures up in these posts and the Travel Diary to give everything a more realistic feel, but it’s hard to find time on a trip like this!

However, I just wanted to give a little plug to this little cake store my wife and I stumbled across when were in Rome and went to visit the Colosseum.  It was one of those ‘blink and you’ll miss it ‘ type of places, but the cakes and chocolates there were absolutely divine.  If you happen to be around the Colosseum, do yourself a favour and check it out!

For those that haven’t been to Rome before, there are pizza shops and gelato bars on almost every street corner of the tourist disticts.  There are also plenty of patisseries that sell bread and tarts (especially ones with nuts).  But you’d be hard pressed to find a shop that dedicates itself purely to delicately designed cakes, the ones you common to Paris or Tokyo, where you can enjoy an afternoon snack with a cup of coffee or after a flavoursome meal.

Cristalli Di Zucchero in Rome

Cristalli Di Zucchero in Rome

Anyway, the place is called Cristalli Di Zucchero, and it has a one page website here with address details (turns out it’s a different address to the one we went to).  Basically, if you walk past the Colosseum (through Arco di Constantino) and head South all the way along Via di S. Gregorino, then curl around the outside of the walled archaeological site (Palatino or Palantine Hill) and head West along Via de Cerchi until you reach the South West corner of the site.  The store, which has no signs outside (basically just a hole in the wall) is just across from this little cathedral hidden inside the wall on Via di San Teodoro, just as you turn the South West corner and before you reach Arco di Giano.

We were actually looking for a toilet, and the shopkeeper was nice enough to let us use their one.  We returned the favour by purchasing 3 cakes.  The highlight was this unassuming one we were recommended called Williams (white dome with chocolate streaks on top), and it was sensational.

Okay, more on this and pizza in my next post…and maybe a bit on my visit to the Vatican too.

PS: I’m still trying to complete my review of Stephen King’s On Writing (which I finally finished) and update my Travel Diary for the Rome and Vatican City.

Mmmm...cakes...

Mmmm...cakes...

cakes-2

'Williams' was sensational

'Williams' was sensational

Former Judge Einfeld gets at least 2 years in prison

March 20, 2009 in Social/Political Commentary

It all ends in tears.  Einfeld gets 3 years (2 years non-parole)

A $77 fine ends in tears. Einfeld gets 3 years (2 years non-parole)

Just a follow-up from my post on 26 February about the spectacular fall from grace of former Federal Court of Australia judge Marcus Einfeld.  Today, Justice James of the New South Wales Supreme Court sentenced the 70 year-old Einfeld to 3 years jail with a 2-year non-parole period for perjury and perverting the course of justice.

In my previous post, I weighed up the for-and-against in sending a former judge (with a long history of decorated public service and contributions to society) to prison for making up an elaborate lie to prevent incurring a measly $77 traffic fine and a few demerit points (which would have left him with one point).  One lie led to another until it got totally out of hand and things unravelled quickly when journalists discovered the truth.  I never came to a final conclusion about whether Einfeld should be given a custodial sentence.  However, I think the actual outcome today was fair.  Certainly, there can be no complaints.

In handing down the sentence, Justice James regarded Einfeld’s conduct as “planned criminal activity” and said that the offence struck “at the heart of the administration of justice”.  In paricular: “Any lawyer, and especially a lawyer who has been a barrister and a judge, who commits such an offence is to be sentenced on the basis that he would have been fully aware of the gravity of his conduct”.

Upon hearing the sentence, Einfeld covered his face with his hands and his family and supporters broke into tears. 

Einfeld’s final words before being escorted from the dock: ”Oh, the bag is packed.”

Update: Italian Adventure and Writing

March 19, 2009 in Novel, On Writing, Travel

This has been the longest gap between posts since I started this blog in mid-January.  There’s a good reason.  I’m on a mind-blowing 3-week adventure through Italy, Switzerland and Germany, plus visits to Prague and Vienna – and Internet access has not been easy (well, at least not free, and I’m low on cash).

Anyway, so far, so excellent.  I’m going to try and update my Travel Diary regularly so as to not lag behind too much.  Check out the first part of my adventure from Pisa to Florence to Venice!

I haven’t totally forgot about my novel writing either (I brought my laptop on the trip).  One thing about travelling predominantly by train in Europe is an abundance of train rides, from as short as an hour to as long as five (I believe from Freiburg to Munich is the longest).  This means plenty of time to read and write.  I’ve also got Stephen King’s brilliant On Writing stored on my iPod, which I’ve been listening to.  It’s my first audio book and I’m really enjoying listening to Stephen King’s voice (though it did take a little getting used to).  Full review coming when I finish.

I had been in a semi-slump lately with the fantasy novel.  Words were written and the story was progressing but I wasn’t happy with what was on the screen.  As it turned out, this trip and Stephen King were exactly what I needed to get my mojo back.  I’m glad to say I am back on track and loving working on the novel more than ever.  Hopefully it will last even after I return home.

PS: And no, I didn’t bring any study materials or textbooks with me.  I’m pathetic but not THAT pathetic.

[PPS: Travel Diary has now been updated!]

Two Books on Writing for Writers

March 13, 2009 in Book Reviews, On Writing

A post on two books I checked out this afternoon at the bookstore: (1) How Not to Write a Novel by Howard Mittlemark and Sandra Newman and (2) Bird by Birdby Anne Lamott.  While both were on writing, they could not be more different in terms of styles and approach.

Note that I have NOT read either book from cover to cover – the following simply contains some of my views on them from flicking through the book, skimming the majority of it (using my slightly faulty speed reading capabilities) and reading in detail only the specific sections that appealed to me.

How Not to Write a Novel: 200 Classic Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

how-not-to-write-a-novel1I first caught a glimpse of this book in the hands of some dude standing outside a bank in Dublin of all places.  It sounded like an interesting concept for a writer’s book (if anything, it was catchy), and I was keen to know whether I was committing any of the 200 classic mistakes in the fantasy novel I was working on.

So I found the book rather easily today and had a good look through it.  The book is broken down into various parts, each dealing with a specific problem area, such as plot, pacing, character, dialogue, voice – and goes as far as telling writers how not to write sex scenes!  Each of the 200 classic mistakes were accompanied by a tailor-made example provided by the authors that allow the reader to identify the mistake with ease.  Much of the writing is infused with quite a bit of humour, and the tone is light-hearted, though it can be somewhat condescending at times.  The authors call it ‘tough love’.  They say if you can learn to avoid all the mistakes they listed, you would have transformed yourself from unpublishable to publishable writer.

To be honest, I’m not sure how helpful the book would be to serious writers.  Don’t get me wrong, it was a fascinating read, but the significant proportion of the ’classic mistakes’ were so blatantly obvious that any writer with a little common sense would not make them (perhaps they just needed to get to 200).  And I say this as a first-time writer who is acutely aware of the fact that he has a long long long way to go before becoming even remotely publishable.

However, that is not to say all of the tips were useless – I did find a few to be beneficial.  Perhaps not in reading what the actual mistake is as such, but rather from seeing clearly why the mistake is bad for your writing.  As a consequence, it will make it easier for you to recognise the mistake in your own writing.  In particular, the bits I found most useful were the examples on sticking to just the relevant details in descriptions and dialogue, and avoiding stock-standard character descriptions and  indistinguishable or faceless secondary characters.  These may have been things I knew were bad before, but now I will aim to target these problems even more in my next draft.

The biggest problem with the book might also be its selling point – most of the time, the book tells you what NOT to do rather than teaches what you SHOULD do.  You might say it’s the same thing, but it’s much easier to point out another’s mistakes than doing it right yourself.  Not making a common mistake does not necessarily make the writing any good.  Furthermore, some of these so-called mistakes may be found in many of the published novels you see on shelves today.

The verdict: A good book to pick up and flick through, especially for novices (like myself), but the truth is it won’t instantly transform you into a publishable author if you weren’t one before.  Many of the classic mistakes are obvious and reading too many in a row can get tedious, so it’s probably better to pick and choose your problem areas rather than go from cover to cover.

Bird by Bird: Some Instructions on Writing and Life

bird-by-birdNow this is a completely different book to the one above.  I first came across Anne Lamott’s gem of a book the first day of a creative writing course I did a year ago.  Since then, I have picked up the book in book stores on several occasions (which killed the need to buy it) and I’ve enjoyed it immensely every time.

This book is less about gimmicks and more about the essence of writing.  It’s written like a memoir, with lots of personal stories, experiences and anecdotes, usually told in Lamott’s trade mark, self-deprecating humour which I find very funny.  You won’t find any meticulously structured tips on writing techniques (though it is split into chapters, each dealing with a different aspect of writing), but what you will get are brutally honest and sometimes profound observations about the craft of writing and the struggles in the life of a writer.

Much of it is philosophical, so how much the reader takes out of it may vary significantly, but personally, I found it more useful than How Not to Write a Novel.  Instead of learning about the types of mistakes that publishers avoid, Lamott tells you to be honest with yourself and write from the heart.  You can tell she believes what she preaches through her writing.  That is not to say there are not any broad lessons to be learnt.  Ones I found especially helpful include:

  • allowing yourself to write shitty first drafts (no one gets it right on the first attempt);
  • knowing its okay to learn about and define your characters as you progress, rather than worry about shaping them completely before you begin writing;
  • ensuring each character has a different voice and distinguishing characteristics, such that they can be distinguished through their dialogue;
  • reading your dialogue out loud (where possible) to improve it;
  • dealing with jealousy (in relation to successful friends and colleagues!);
  • getting help from others, such as finding someone to read your drafts, join groups and networking;
  • how to deal with writer’s block; and
  • the cold hard truth about getting published.

Lamott paints a pretty grim picture about the publishing world.  Frankly, she says, it’s not all it’s cracked up to be, and in particular, the financial rewards for most are minimal.  However, she continues to remind writers of the beauty and pleasure of the act of writing itself.  For people that tend to get too caught up in getting published, it’s a good book to read to bring you back down to earth.

A problem I had with the book are common with books of this type – you don’t always find the anecdotes and stories interesting and engaging.  Sometimes, you might feel like skipping to the next point, except you’re not sure where the next point is because the structure doesn’t allow it.  So it’s best not to see this book as a technical writing guide, but rather, as something you can enjoy as a piece of work in its own right, though you might be surprised to learn a few valuable lessons along the way.

Another issue one may find is that Lamott’s style is more suited to writers like her who write about characters and relationships.  Accordingly, for someone (like me) working on a fast-paced fantasy novel, the suggestions about letting your characters take complete charge and drive the plot wherever it may go might not always be the most suitable approach.

The verdict: An honest, often hilarious book that speaks to writers’ hearts.  It might not be the book you would choose if you want to learn about the technical aspects of being a better writer, and some people might simply not get her message (and there’s nothing wrong with that), but personally I found it enjoyable.

PS: for those that enjoyed the book, there is a documentary called Bird by Bird with Annie: A Film Portrait of Writer Anne Lamott that focuses on a year in the life of the titular writer.  I haven’t seen it but would be interested to know if it is any good.

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